Shoe inseam sewing machine



Dec. 21, 1948. o. R. HAAS 2,456,634

SHOE INSEAM SEWING MACHINE Filed June 6, 1947 Fatented Dec. 21 1948 U NIT ED S N F'F l-"C 7 456,634 SHOE IN'SEAM SEWING MACHINE Otto R. Haas;Beverly, Mass a'ssignor to United Shoe MachineryCorporation, Flemington,N. 3;, a corporation of New Jersey Application June-6; 1947:, Serial'No.752,868

The present invention relates to shoe ins'e'a'ni sewing machines andparticularly to novel means for determining the correct position of theneedle in itsclaniping device and the p'rop'errelation ship between theneedle and thech'annel' guide for most effective sewing operations.

In the machine of United States Letters Pat'- ent No. 1,003,175, grantedSeptember 12, 1911, in the name of Andrew Eppler, there is provided agage for determining the correctposition of the channel guide to insurepositioning of a shoe during. sewing operations. Withthe channel guidecorrectly positioned the sewing devices of the machine may be regulatedin a number of difierent ways to enable successful'sewing operations tobe performed on a particular type of work. In adjusting the sewingdevices it is common practice to change the position of the more readilyaccessible devices among which are the needle and the loope'r beforeattempting to adjust the more inaccessible devices. Accordingly, therelationship between thenee'dle and the channel guide may be changedwith an apparently satisfactory result for'the particular type of workif special compensating"adjustments are made mothers of the stitchforming devices and when another type or quality or work is operatedupon great difiiculty will be'encountere'd in regulating the sewingdevices for effective results. Thus, if the needle, after its workpenetrating stroke, does not retract sufficiently to form a properlytensioned stitch it' is possible thereafter to tighten the stitch duringthe'stitch setting operation of the machine with the requisite tensionif the stroke of the take-up is increased. Inasmuch as the stitchtightening operation of the needle is determined fundamentally by itsrelationship with the 'chaiinel guide, an object of the presentinvention is to provide means for insuring a standard predeterminedstitch tightening action during the retracting movement of the needlewithout special compensating adjustments in other stitch formingdevices. Another object of the invention is to enable adjustments of thechannel guide and needle of a shoe inseam sewing machine to be made insuch relationship that satisfactory sewing results may be obtained forany type or quality of work within the range intended to be covered bythe machine.

To the ends above noted the present invention includes an inseam sewingmachine having a curved hook needle, a segment in which the needle isadjustably clamped, and mechanism for actuating the segment to move theneedle 3Clain'is'. (C1. 112 50) 2 through a constant arcu'ate pathtoward and" from the work in which a movable gage is mounted" on themachine frame and arranged to be shifted b'y'the operator toward andfrom the" needle'pa'th, into and out of gagin'gpo'sition with the needleso that the needl'emay heclani'ped withinthe' needle segment at thecorrect location. ihis feature of'the invention also c'o'ntern platesthe provision of gage fine'ans" cooperating with the channel g'uidein a"manner sirhila'r to that of the E'pple'r patentabove identified. In theillustrated form of this feature" the machine is provided" with apair'of pivoted arms having shoulders-for contacting the lip ofthe"channel guide and the hook ofthe' 'ne'edlean'd arranged for separateswinging movements" toward and from gaging positions.

These and other 'f'eaturesof the-invention consistin' certain device's,combinations an-"darrange-- ments of parts hereinafter describedand'clai'me'di the advantages of which will bea'pparent" from thefoll'o'wing' description taken in connection with the accompanyingdrawings, in which- Figi; 1 is a View in right 'sideelevation' of a;shoe inseam sewing machine embodying the features'of the presentinvention;

I Fig; '2 is a'deta'il pla'n'vi'ew'bn'an'enlarg'ed scale of the needleand channel guide'ga'ge; arms of the machineoi Fig. l illustratedirr'their gaging positicns; and v Fig. 3 is a detail View in elevationof 'thesaiii'e arms. I 1

The machine illustrated in-"the drawing isa curved hookjne'edle chainstitch welt shoe sewing machine "and is similar in construction and modeof operation" to'- that of the Epplerpatenfia'bove noted and of PatentNo: 1',l0'8,560, granted A ugust 25', 1914; inthe name'of thesameinventor.

Referring. to the drawings" the curved hook needle is illustrated' at2,- a curved awl at" 4'; a needle loope'r at 3', a chan'riehg'uide at 8a'we'lt guide at it and a backrestat l2. 'Ihema'chine is' also providedwith a channel guide gage II in the form of a swinging arm mounted on amain frame l5 of the machine in a manner similar to that of Patent1,003,175.

To adjust the channel guide 8 as in the machine of the patent it isnecessary to free it from its actuating mechanism by loosening a clampbolt indicated at it in Fig. 1, as more fully described in the Epplerpatent. The channel guide is then moved transversely of the direction offeed to bring its work engaging end or lip into contact with a shoulderon the gage 14 while the gage is held in raised position. After suchadjustment of the channel guide it has been found that eifective sewingoperations still may be performed only by further and more complicatedadjustment in the stitch forming devices of the machine particularly theneedle, looper and take-up indicated at 18. These adjustments, ifexpertly performed, provide satisfactory sewing operations on aparticular type of work, but with changes in type or quality of the workfurther adjustments are required.

To insure uniformly satisfactory sewing operations with difierent typesof work throughout the operating range of the machine without thenecessity of making further adjustments when the type or quality of workis changed, according to the present invention, a similar additionalgage arm 20 has been pivotally mounted on the machine frame to swingseparately toward and from the path of the needle and concentricallywith the channel guide gage I4. For this purpose the arm of the channelguide gage has an enlarged hub within which is rotatable the reduced hubportion of the gage arm 2, the gage arm 20 being pivotally mounted on aninternally threaded stud 22 receiving within its threaded opening aclamp screw 24 for securing the stud to the frame of the machine. Theneedle gage arm 20 is formed at ts outer end with a shoulder 26extending laterally from the arm in such a position that it may engagethe tip of the barb on the needle hook when the needle is at the limitof its work penetrating movement. To insure location of the needleactuating mechanism in a position corresponding to the extreme workpenetrating position of the needle, it is necessary only to turn thesewing shaft of the machine manually until no furthe forward movement ofthe needle occurs.

o adjust the needle in its proper extreme work penetrating position bythe use of the gage arm 20 the needle is released from its actuatingmechanism, including a segment 28 by loosening a screw 30 which acts toclamp the shank of the needle between the segment and a cap plate 32 onthe segment. The needle is then shifted in the segment until its hookengages the shoulder 26 on the gage arm 20 and the clamp screw 30thereafter tightened to secure the needle in its adjusted position.After securing the needle in adjusted position the gage arm 20 may beswung downwardly to the position of Fig. 1 to prepare the machine forsewing operations.

With the use of the needle gage arm 20 and the channelguide gage [4 boththe corresponding parts of the machine may be adjusted in correctrelation forproper sewing operations. Thus, satisfactory sewingoperations may be performed throughout the'range of work types andqualities for which the machine is designed to operate correctly withoutthe necessity of making further adjustments except to accommodate theoriginally gaged adjustments of the needle and channel guide.satisfactorily with these two adjustments, further Once the machine hasbeen set to sew I 4 changes are not needed for correct sewing operationsunder widely varying conditions.

The nature and scope of the invention having been indicated and aparticular embodiment having been described, what is claimed is:

l. A shoe inseam sewing machine having stitch forming devices includinga curved hook needle and a needle segment within which the needle isadjustably clamped, a channel guide, mechanism for moving the guidetoward and from the work having provision for adjustment to locate thelip of the channel guide transversely to the direction of feed andmechanism for actuating the needle segment -to cause the needle topenetrate and retract from the work, in combination with movable gagemeans arranged to be moved by the operator into a position to indicatethe correct relation between the lip of the channel guide and the hookof the needle and to be moved away from said position after the needleand channel guide have been adjusted.

2. A shoe inseam sewing machine having stitch forming devices includinga curved hook needle and a needle segment within which the needle isadjustably clamped, a channel guide, mechanism for moving the guidetoward and from the work having provision for adjustment to locate thelip of the channel guide transversely to the direction of feed andmechanism for actuating the needle segment to cause the needle topenetrate and retract from the work, in combination with movable gagemeans arranged to be moved by the operator into a position to indicatethe correct relation between the lip of the channel guide and the hookof the needle and to be moved away from said position afterthe needleand channel guide have been adjusted,comprising arms pivoted on themachine frame to swing separately toward and from gaging positions andprovided with shoulders for contacting the lip of the channel guide andthe hook of the needle respectively.

.3. A shoe inseam sewing machine having a main frame, stitch formingdevices including a curved hook needle, a segment in which the needle isadjustably clamped, and mechanism for actuating the segment to move theneedle in an arcuate path toward and from the work, in combination witha movable gage arm having a lip pivoted on the machine frame to swingtoward and from the path of the needle to a position of contact betweenthe lip and the hook of the needle when the needle is at the limit ofits work penetrating movement.

OTTO R. I-IAAS.

REFERENCES CITED 1 The following references are of record in the file ofthis patent:

UNITED STATES PATENTS Number I Kiewicz Sept. 9, 1913

